How to Clean your Dogs Teeth

By Hillary Marshall

Please clean and brush your Dogs Teeth! We brush them, bathe them and buy them tons of toys, but often we over look one of the most important things about our dogs. A dog's teeth are essential to their daily living , they clean with them, eat with them and play with them. However, due to a number of circumstances beyond their control they often end up needing teeth extracted in numbers. Fortunately, there are plenty of things that we can do as owners and care givers to minimize the likelihood of our dog needing dental work.
 
Things You’ll Need:
Pet Toothpaste and Pet Toothbrush or Cleaning Tool

Step 1 - Starting your dog off with a tooth care regimen at a young age is always a good idea. This will help decrease the likelihood that your dog will need dental intervention. It will also will help the dog develop a tolerance for the activity. Optimally, you should brush your dogs teeth daily. However, if that is not feasible brush them every other day. The more often that you brush your dogs teeth, the quicker that they will become accustom to having it done. 

Step 2 - There are many dental products for dogs on the market currently. It is important that you purchase a dog toothpaste or pet toothpaste. Toothpaste that is made for humans can be harmful to your dog. You can find toothpaste that contains fluoride for dogs, but it is not 100% necessary. Dogs that already have dental issues, like gum disease may benefit from a dog toothpaste with fluoride.

Selecting a toothbrush can be tricky. There are many different types of toothbrushes to choose from. The easiest style of brush to use is the finger brush. This brush fits easily over your finger. This style of brush works well for smaller dogs or dogs who have an adverse reaction to getting their teeth brushed. You can also use dental pads for dogs who are difficult. When you choose a tooth brush, the most important things is to select a brush that is made for dogs, they are softer and smaller than our brushes. 

Step 3 - Staying relaxed and positive is essential to your dog taking to getting their teeth brushed. Practice brushing their teeth with just your finger and a yummy liquid. Next, move on to practicing with gauze and a yummy liquid. You will gently move in a circular motion to remove any plaque. When you graduate to the actual brushing instrument, let the dogs inspect it. Letting them sniff, lick and even bite their toothbrush may help to alleviate any anxiety they have about it being in their mouth. You can start off by brushing the outside of your dogs canine teeth and gradually increase the number of teeth you brush each day. Eventually, you will be brushing all your dogs teeth daily, both on the inside and out. 

Step 4 - Toys and diet can also be a part of your dogs dental care. Dry food tends to cause less plaque then wet food. So, it is an important part of your dogs diet even if it is not their soul source of nourishment. Avoid foods with excess sugars or gluten and limit table scraps. Poor diet is definitely a contributing factor to dental problems. This may become more apparent later in your dogs life. Besides diet, the toys that you give your dog can play an important role in their overall dental health.

Pets stores are filled with toys that can help remove plaque when chewed on. You can buy soft cloth and rope toys that wipe away plaque. Some dogs prefer chewing on harder toys. They have many dental bones and snacks available that are a bit tougher. The most important thing is that you make certain your dog is not chewing hard enough to break or chip a tooth. Dental toys are a great way to supplement brushing your dogs teeth, especially if you do not brush them daily. 

Step 5 - Regardless of your dogs age it is important that you start implementing a doggy dental care routine. Dental intervention with your vet, if need can be expensive and uncomfortable for you pet. Veterinarian dental care can be avoided or minimized if you make your dogs teeth as much a priority to you as they are to your dog. Have fun!

How to Clean a Dog Wound

By Christie Fletcher

Dogs are just like children! They are always getting into something. So if you are a dog owner, you are inevitably going to have to deal with a sore or a wound of some sort from time to time. With these simple steps, you will learn how to diagnose, clean and treat most any wound. If it is a more serious situation, of course you must see your vet. But the goal here is to treat your pet at home, help them heal, and avoid those expensive vet bills. It's easier than you think!

Things You’ll Need: Scissors or clippers, Mild soap and warm water, Hydrogen Peroxide , Cotton balls 

Step 1; First you must diagnose the wound. One of the most common problems dogs have is something called a "hot spot." Take a look at the photo here and see if that is what you are dealing with. They will lick it often, and the hair will begin to disappear around it. Sometimes it does get a little pus and blood around it. The goal is to stop it before that happens. 

Step 2; Whether it is a hot spot or not, the next step is to clip the hair off around your dog's wound. As much as possible. Scissors will work, but clippers are even better. The goal is to allow more exposure for you to clean it properly, and let the wound heal without any hair getting stuck to it. This will also give you a better look at what you are dealing with. 

Step 3; Clean the wound with a very mild soap and warm water. Be sure you get all the soap rinsed out. Gently pat the area dry. For hot spots, puncture wounds or cuts... the cleaning and treating method is pretty much the same. Again, if you believe your dog has something serious going on, such as a poisonous animal bite or a very deep cut that looks infected, you must see your vet. Otherwise, just follow the next step! 

Step 4; There are all types of medications lining the shelves at pet supply stores for cleaning and healing your dog's wounds. Go with the old standby: hydrogen peroxide. It is a good antiseptic, and will help keep the area dry. Buy a big bottle. It works, and you'll want to have some on hand for the future. 

Step 5; Pour the HP on the wound, or dab it on with a cotton ball. If your dog licks at it a little, don't worry about it. It won't hurt them. Apply numerous times a day as needed. Just be sure to keep the hair clipped back until the wound is beginning to heal (don't worry, it will grow back). Whenever your dog goes outside, clean the wound as soon as they come back in, and reapply the HP. Keeping dirt out of the problem area is key.

Tips & Warnings
If it is a wound that is itchy, you may want to consider giving your dog some Benadryl. Vets recommend this often. If the wound does not heal within a week, or begins to get worse, call your vet.

How to Add Dog Items to Your Emergency Kits

By Jodi Jill
Earthquakes. Hurricanes and even tornados. We need to be ready for the unexpected or worse yet, complete meltdown from Mother Nature. What most people forget is you MUST add these items for the dog so they can stay with you during these tough times!

Step 1; You need a well fitting dog muzzle. At this point there are rules in place that if you are stranded with an animal you can take them (unlike Katrina) as long as they have a muzzle. This is very important for staying at shelters and using public transportation. 

Step 2; At least 6 cans of dog food. This will last you approximately 3 days if you are conservative and needed for your animal. 

Step 3; A gallon of water for each day (three days minimum is best.) 

Step 4; A rawhide for chewing during the wait. A familiar toy would also be good for chewing. 

Step 5; A leash that is ready to go. We have a 15 foot leash and a 6 foot leash. You won't know the surroundings so having both immediately to use is important.

Flea Control

No dog gets through life without fleas. Fleas are an especially big problem if a dog is allergic to flea bites. Many dogs are. Some breeds, like Golden Retrievers, are allergic to flea bites all their lives. Dogs often become more sensitive to flea bites as they age because older skin is drier and an aging immune system weaker.

Even though your dog may have gone through puppyhood and most of the adult years with barely the flick of a paw at a flea, the senior years are different. Flea control becomes increasingly important as your dog ages.

Some people insist they have no fleas in their home or on their dog. They've never seen a flea nor been bitten. Yet, even as they insist they are flea-free, their dog hangs out with bare hind-quarters and several festering hot spots on his body, scratching madly at his undercarriage. Owner denial or lack of awareness is common. 

Fleas are hardy and prolific. They like a temperate, moist climate best, but they can go into a dormant state for as much as a year, waiting until conditions for survival and reproduction are more favorable. They live (or lie dormant) in carpets, furniture, bedding, floor and wall joints, indoor plants, gardens, and yards. They like the cozy, moist places around bushes in your garden. They like the car, too, if the dog goes for rides in it.

Here is the plan of attack to keep fleas under control:
Attack the fleas on your dog and any other pets who live with you. 
Attack the fleas in your home. 
Attack the fleas in the yard, garden, and car. 

The advertising literature for some flea control products makes it sound as though your problem will be solved by using just one method of flea control. One method alone usually will not work. Use this three-part plan of attack. It's the best way to achieve good results.

Attack Fleas on Your Dog
Using brush and flea comb on a daily basis will help you to discover any fleas that may be living on your dog. However, you will still need to use agents to repel, kill, or affect the reproductive cycle of the fleas. With an older dog, it is wise to use the gentlest and least invasive methods.

Controlling fleas is big business. Major drug companies are focused on it, and, in the past few years, have developed some outstandingly effective substances. "Program" (Ciba Geigy Corp.) is a once-a-month tablet you give your dog. It acts when a flea bites. The flea ingests the pet's blood, which contains the drug in "Program" (called "lufenuron"). This drug prevents the flea's eggs from developing, ending the reproductive cycle. An "Ovitrol" collar also works by preventing flea eggs from hatching. 

The active ingredients in Program and Ovitrol are "Insect Growth Regulators," or IGRs. These aren't designed to kill anything directly, but rather to interrupt the reproductive cycle of insects. The disadvantage to these products is that adult fleas are still free to bite, and an allergic dog will still react.

Two products that kill fleas but that appear to have no adverse side effects are: (1) Advantage (Bayer), which is applied to a pet's skin -- a few drops between the pet's shoulder blades -- once a month. Fleas that get onto the pet die within a few hours of being exposed to the drug in Advantage; and (2) Frontline (Rhone Merieux), which acts in a similar way. 

Don't use flea collars with insecticide content. They are not effective and can be harmful to your dog. A better use for a flea collar is inside your vacuum cleaner bag. There it will kill any fleas you vacuum up around the house. When it comes to ultrasonic flea collars, we've heard they don't work.

Don't "dip" or "flea shampoo" your dog; the ingredients in such preparations are too harsh, especially for an older dog.

Attack the Fleas in Your Home

Most fleas spend most of their time OFF your dog, jumping on just long enough for a meal. The rest of the time they live somewhere in the environment. That is why you need to vacuum furniture and carpets often. Use washable bedding for your dog and wash it at least as often as you wash your own. Dry the bedding on high heat (anything above 95 degrees will kill flea pupae). Treat your home with your choice of a flea control agent or use a professional exterminator three to four times a year if you live in a temperate climate, or at least twice during spring and summer.

Select the least toxic chemicals available. The company known as "Fleabusters" uses a non-toxic powder that is very effective. If you use a traditional exterminator, ask about the chemicals they employ. "Precor" is in the IGR class and is considered fairly non-toxic. Pyrethrins and pyrethroids, though somewhat toxic, are common and considered safe when properly applied. Organophosphates are also safe as long as you don't have exposure to them while they are still wet. 

The flea-control professionals usually can do a better job than you can do yourself. If you have been doing it yourself and your dog is still scratching, try a professional. Get a recommendation from your vet or from friends. Safe and effective application depends a great deal on the "professional" doing the job. Be sure the person or company is experienced and has a good track record.

Attack Fleas in the Yard, Garden, and Car
There are many choices for do-it-yourselfers to apply to the yard and garden. A class of substances called "wettable powders" can be used effectively. "Dursban" is an example. "Diazinon 25%" is a spray-pesticide that is effective. One problem with these pesticides, however, is that they don't discriminate among insects, and will be as lethal to ladybugs as they are to fleas.

There are some non-toxic alternatives to use in the garden. Diatomaceous earth is a drying agent that creates an inhospitable environment for fleas (available at garden supply stores). Another is a biological substance known as a "nematode" that kills flea eggs and pupae. Sold commercially as "Flea Halt!" and "Interrupt," nematodes are not effective on adult fleas, so, in a cold climate, you need to apply them in the spring, before the eggs have begun to hatch. In a temperate climate, you will need to apply them three to four times a year.

You can spray or "bomb" your car yourself; however, if you don't ventilate the car adequately afterwards, exposure to the poisons in these preparations will be dangerous. Try vacuuming thoroughly first. Then use diatomaceous earth on the carpets and upholstery inside the car. Leave it on overnight, and vacuum again before using the car. 

Consider a professional to do your yard, garden, and car at the same time as the interior of your home is being treated. 

Consult Your Vet and Personalize Your Flea-Control Program
Consult your vet to decide on the best products to use with your dog. The cost of a visit and the purchase of products from your vet is a good investment. Your vet will have the latest information on flea control products, and will also know if your dog is on medication or has a condition that would be compromised by using a particular flea control method. What works for another dog -- who may be younger and in a different state of health -- may not be right for your senior dog. 

If you have a personal leaning toward more "natural," environmentally-safe methods, be sure your vet has the same point of view. 

Your own lifestyle should also affect your choices. Flea control requires time and energy, so try to plan a program that is convenient for yourself. 

A personalized and convenient program -- including an atack on all three fronts -- is one you are likely to follow. It will make a big difference in your senior dog's overall state of health and, in the end, is likely to save you time and money you would otherwise spend in extra trips to the vet.

Tick Control
In attacking fleas, you will also be controlling for ticks. Ticks are problematic because they cause illnesses like Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and Erlichia. Ticks especially like to attach themselves to your dog's face, ears, legs, paws, chest and abdomen. Check these areas carefully by running your hands deep into the fur, along the surface of the skin. 

You will need to use care in removing a tick from your dog so that you do not leave behind a big part of the tick's body. A tiny particle of the body will not be problematic, but any large piece may cause illness or infection. If the tick is not deeply embedded, you can kill it by applying a pyrethrin spray directly to it. If the tick doesn't fall off within a day, use a pair of tweezers (rather than your bare hands), grasping the tick as close to its head as possible. Pull straight out. Then clean the site on your dog's body with soap and water or alcohol, and apply Neosporin or another antibiotic ointment. 

If you are unsure about whether you have successfully removed the tick, see a vet. Tick-borne illnesses like Erlichia can be extremely serious.

The Ten Most Important Tips for Keeping Your Older Dog Healthy

1. Establish a relationship with the best veterinarian you can find. For most older dogs, it is advisable to make an appointment with the vet every six months. Your vet should be someone whom you trust and with whom you feel very comfortable.

2. Become informed about the conditions common to older dogs and the therapies used for them. Be alert to symptoms, bring them to your vet's attention promptly, and be prepared to discuss treatment options.

3. Feed your older dog the best food you can afford; consider feeding him a home-prepared diet and two small meals daily rather than one large one.

4. Don't overfeed your dog. Obesity will create health problems and shorten his life.

5. Consider the use of dietary supplements such as glucosamine/chondroitin for arthritis.

6. Give your senior dog adequate exercise, but adjust it to her changing abilities.

7. Attend to your dog's dental health. Brush her teeth daily and have them cleaned professionally whenever your vet advises it.

8. Tell your vet you wish to have your dog vaccinated only once every three years, as currently advised by the major veterinary colleges.

9. Be diligent in controlling fleas and ticks, and keep your dog and his environment scrupulously clean.

10. Make your senior dog as much a part of your life as possible, and do all you can to keep him interested, active, happy and comfortable.

(Of course, these ten tips also apply in large part to young dogs, too.)

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Dr. Andrew Jones, DVM; Dear fellow pet lover, If you're not ready to make some simple changes to the way you provide veterinary care to your pet, beginning today...your dog or cat could be seriously ill and live a "shortened" life!

Here is How I know: My dog died young, only 8 years old. He was a mixed breed dog, a specimen of health. He was given a ton of attention, exercised three times a day, fed only Veterinary Approved food, and given all his vaccines. He had the "ideal" life. Hoochie passed away in my arms from a massive tumor bleed at 12:02pm on April 12, 2003 - the saddest day of my life. 

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